In recent years we have seen an influx of diamonds in the marketplace touting the virtues of more facets (born out of the premise that if 58 facets is good, then more must be better). But, while industry experts agree that a diamond cut to Ideal proportions produces maximum light performance when judged at the minimum industry standard of 10x magnification, the function and purpose of crown and pavilion facets is completely different.
Crown facets by design are like windows to gather as much light as possible. Each individual facet has two working parts that work completely independent of each other.
The Pavilion has a relatively easy function compared to the crown. The mass of colored light that has passed through the crown facets is focused and directed back to the eye of the observer.
So, is there any benefit to having extra facets on the crown or the pavilion? The answer is “no,” because if you add more facets to the crown you are actually cramming more facets into the same amount of space and by doing so they would have to be smaller. Smaller facets mean smaller windows and less light...not more. However, I would concede that you do get a spike in scintillation, but only at the expense of dispersion, as whatever you do to increase the value of any one of the components by which performance is measured (dispersion, scintillation or brilliance) always comes at the expense of the other two.
How about extra facets on the pavilion? Just do a very simple experiment: Take a mirror and a marking pen and draw of series of diagonal lines across the face of the mirror to indicate facets. When you add more lines, do you see more of your reflection or less? I think you know the answer. The truth is that fad and fashion come and go. Companies will tweak and change things, sometimes just a little bit in order to make it their own, yet perfection still eludes them for they are merely imposters.
At Hearts On Fire, perfection is our mantra, our obsession and is what ultimately defines us as a company…starting with the selection of the most optically pure crystals, through the diamond cutting process using space age technology where facets are cut and polished at 100x power magnification, and finally all the way to that moment when this magnificent diamond finds its way onto the hand of that special person – visibly different and instantly recognizable as a Hearts On Fire diamond.